new Glashütte Original SeaQ in red gold –
The Glashütte Original SeaQ has been the mainstay of the German manufacturer’s dive watch offering since its introduction in 2019. This year they added a red gold version. We lent one for a week to wear it, examine it and discover its charms.
We covered the SeaQ when it launched and afterwards in a detailed review here:
The launch models were both stainless steel and were available as a historically accurate 1969 SeaQ (limited edition, now sold out) and a modern interpretation SeaQ. Now joining these two watches is this red gold edition.
Review: new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in red gold
The retail price for the Glashütte Original SeaQ red gold is 34,700 SGD including VAT with the deployant closure in the black rubber strap or the gray synthetic strap.
The new SeaQ is the same watch as the non-limited edition reinterpreted version in stainless steel released at launch we reviewed here except for the red gold case.
The case, dial and hands
The case remains rather well sized with a diameter of 39.5 mm and a height of 12.15 mm like the steel version. As a reminder, two models were introduced in 2019. The first is the SeaQ 1969, which is a faithful reproduction of the original, limited to only 69 examples. And the second is a more modern reinterpretation. Both are nearly identical and have a case diameter of 39.5mm and a closed back. Both versions carry the same retail price of SGD 13,900. This new red gold version is now a precious metal addition, and available in the rubber strap of the SeaQ 1969 as well as a gray synthetic strap. Both red gold versions have the same price of SGD 34,700.
The watch wears the same unidirectional rotating bezel with a black ceramic inlay. The case is tested to meet DIN 8306 as well as ISO 6425 specifications for diver’s watches, and rated at 200m water resistance. Although a gold case is a rather unusual choice for a tool diver’s watch, the 5N red gold chosen by GO is finished in a matte finish and is not shiny at all. The overall look is perhaps more akin to the utilitarian aesthetic of a bronze or brass case, with the added luxurious touch of gold with its denser feel. The inert chemical properties of gold are also an advantage which renders the case with a non-tarnished and non-weathered finish.
The dial design is typical of a diver’s watch. Very readable and clearly laid out. This hands-on approach makes readability excellent. The combination of large Arabic numerals with bar indexes works well with the huge, thick hands.
And in the dark, the SeaQ rewards the owner with a beautiful blue-green luminescent glow. Readability is excellent.
The dial is manufactured in-house at the GO Dial manufacturing plant in Pforzheim, which we detail here. SeaQ dials start with brass blanks. Once the essential openings have been created for the hands and the date window, the dial is ground and polished before acquiring its deep black finish by galvanic process. It is then finished with a protective coat of clear lacquer. The applied numbers, indices, logo, lettering and additional details are then attached.
The movement: Caliber 39-11
The movement of the SeaQ Panorama Date is Caliber 39-11, which has been used in all SeaQ series since their launch. The movement has proven itself as a reliable workhorse, fully capable of withstanding the rigors of a tool watch and a diver’s watch. For the first time, the case back is now equipped with a sapphire crystal back to showcase the movement, which rewards us with its beauty. The steel models were all fitted with a closed back with engravings.
As mentioned, the case back has a sapphire crystal window and the entire movement is visible. The large 21k gold rotor, decorated with piercings to reveal the double G GO logo, and set with Glashütte ribbing adorns the pride of the main real estate. false rib. The ribs are repeated on the three-quarter plate movement in its signature German Silver. However, it is worth noting that the movement does not carry the traditional hand-engraved GO cock. GO explained that this is a purely aesthetic choice for their workhorse movements in tool/diver’s watches rather than an exercise in cost cutting. Otherwise, the the finish is very good. Not quite the top high quality watchmaking levels reached for example by the Excellence series from GO, but very good, especially considering that it is a diver’s/tool’s watch.
Competitive landscape
A gold diver’s watch is often a luxury variation of the standard tool offered by most houses, as is the case with this red gold SeaQ. And it’s sometimes a bit strange to see a shiny gold watch being squeezed into tool watch tasks. However, the red gold SeaQ, thanks to its matte red gold finish, manages to straddle the world of luxury and the world of tooling rather successfully. At around SGD 34,000, its price is also rather mid-range, with competitors mostly sister companies of the Swatch Group.
Looking at the competitive landscape, a good option might be the Blancpain Fifty Fathom Automatic which sells for CHF 28,300 (about SGD 40k). The Blancpain is also encased in a solid red gold case and ceramic bezel, and carries the in-house blancpain Cal. 1315. It has a deeper depth rating of 300m, but the case is significantly larger at 45mm and may be a hindrance for medium-sized or smaller wrists.
Another could be the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Stopwatch. The case measures 42mm in Sedna gold, and rated to 300m, carries the Master Co-Axial chronometer movement. The Omega sells for 35,650 SGD.
Final Thoughts
At 39.5mm, the GO SeaQ is a fits well and wears well. However, as the case of the watch is solid red gold, the watch does carry a bit of weight, which we think is a very nice feeling of weight on the wrist. As noted, the matte finish gives it a utilitarian look, which probably won’t draw as much attention as a shiny gold case usually does. The watch looks in its element in business casual or sporty settings, but when needed it’s able to comfortably maintain the luxury sleek and sporty aesthetic to pull back nicely under a shirt cuff and of a bespoke suit. A versatile diver’s watch.
In terms of price, we believe that for a solid gold watch, the demand the price is right. And should be part of consideration for those looking for a watch that transcends sports and tool uses, to luxury and elegance.
Photo notes
The Glashütte Original SeaQ red gold was lent to us for about a week. The photographs were taken in our studio. Fujifilm GFX 50S II with Hasselblad HC 4/120 Macro and HC 2.8/80 + H26 attsched via H G adapter. Profoto Flashes.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in red gold Technical specifications
Model Name: SeaQ
Launch year: 2022
Reference number: 1-39-11-17-91-33 (with black rubber strap) / 1-39-11-17-91-34 (with gray synthetic fabric strap)
Movement: Caliber 39-11 automatic, finely finished movement
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Special Features: tested to meet DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 standards for diver’s watches
Frequency: 28,800 A/h, equivalent to 4 Hz
Case: 5N red gold, rotating bezel with black ceramic inlay,
Engraved caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 20 bar
Dimensions: Diameter: 39.5 mm, height: 12.15 mm
Dial: Galvanic black sunburst finish, numerals and indexes applied with Super-LumiNova® inlays
Hands: With Super-LumiNova® inlays
Straps: Strap in black rubber or gray synthetic fabric, both with butterfly-shaped folding clasp in 5N red gold