Gabriela Hearst unveils her first Chloé collection, imbued with Uruguayan influences and the quintessential DNA of the Parisian house
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One of the Paris Fashion Week runways we’ve all been waiting for is Gabriela Hearst’s inaugural unveiling of her Fall / Winter 2021 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Maison Chloé which was presented digitally today. Also note, Chloé unleashing the hundred years collection on the day of the birth of Gaby Aghion, the founders. Chloé in Greek means “to flower” and with Hearst in charge, it is a new flowering for the House. The Uruguayan-American designer has created a collection that matches the DNA of the House of Chloe, but it is also possible to see Hearst’s style DNA in various rooms.
Gaby and Gabi are both ambitious fashion designers with a daring tenacity to interpret femininity in their respective generations. Hearst noting to Gaby, “Your house is in good hands.” According to the House in a press release, “when the founder of Chloé began to present her first collections, she invited guests to places on the Left Bank such as the Café de Flore and the Brasserie Lipp”. And it is in front of the Brasserie Lipp that Chloé staged the parade. It is important to Hearst that this inaugural collection is sustainable with a commitment to the common good.
In line with Chloe’s sustainable goals for 2025, the collection is four times more sustainable than last year’s collection. Hearst and his team have phased out polyester and viscose, sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim. 50% of the silk used comes from organic farming and more than 80% of the cashmere yarn for the knitwear is recycled according to the Maison.
The collection of twenty-nine looks is filled with an earthy color palette and it started with a ceramic button and this quote from Gaby Aghion: “There was no luxury ready-to-wear; well-made clothes with quality fabrics and fine details did not exist.
The models paraded to the music of Latin American artists Lido Pimienta and Los Fabulosos Cadillacs. From bespoke jackets that attach to the side and trench coats to dresses in leather and wool gauze, Hearst has created precise day wear. The knitted pieces are made from recycled cashmere and multi-colored stripes reminiscent of Hearst’s Uruguayan culture. She also brought puffchos, a type of poncho, striped dresses and fringes for her personal inspiration and a nod to her heritage.
Going into the archives, Hearst brought distinct touches to Chloe with the Aghion scalloped details of her first cotton pique dress from her Brasserie Lipp show in 1960. Hearst added this detail to the georgette blouses and on petals of patchwork of leather or denim. The marbled effect seen throughout the collection was born in New York, the hometown of Hearst, a craft technique from natural ingredients.
Another unique touch are the intricate intarsia butterflies on the sweaters and scarves that Hearst has added. âIf our insects go away, we collapse as a species. This is why harmful herbicides and pesticides used in the manufacture of our materials must be eliminated â, Hearst notes.
Chloé is a fully designer house with handbags and jewelry. All bags are lined with natural linen. âMy first luxury handbag was the Chloé Edith bag and it’s a piece I still love and wanted to pay homage to. Hearst notes. Reissuing the Edith bag, Hearst used recycled jacquard and also created a mini version as a tote bag and doctor’s bag. Fifty vintage Edith bags were reused with leftover materials from the collection, “new isn’t always better,” shares Hearst.
The shoes are comfortable. Leather Chelsea boots on a crepe sole with a scalloped edge in recycled cashmere are suitable for a fall shoe. In collaboration with Manboots, Chloé material and recycled cashmere offer a playful winter shape for next season.
As for jewelry, the ceramic button that inspired the entire collection is seen as a pendant, paired with minerals and gemstones of amethyst, rose and smoky quartz and the royal blue shade of lapis lazuli. Baroque beads in recycled wood for pendants and earrings are part of the collection.
The Maison has collaborated with Manos del Uruguay and Sheltersuit in order to have a positive social impact for the women and men artisans seen throughout the collection. The Sheltersuit Chloé backpack is available in four colors and made from recycled materials. âIt’s part of Chloe’s mission: to make sense of business efforts in a post-pandemic world to help recognize and alleviate the hardships of others. A luxury brand has a duty to do this, âsays Hearst.
Chloé’s AW21 Women’s RTW watch collection-
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